How the wave breaks?
The steeper the sea floor gradient the more pronounced the wave height increase. As the wave moves into increasingly shallow water the bottom of the wave decreases speed. In general a wave will start to break when it reaches a water depth of 1.3 times the wave height.On the surfer, there are 3 types for waves break.
Beach Break - The Beach Break is where the waves break on the sandy seabed.
Point Break - The reeves flick entitled Point Break was named after the type of wave! The Point Break is a wave that breaks onto a rocky point.
Reef Break - The Reef Break is a wave that breaks over a coral reef or a rock seabed.

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